BIG ROCK.
Pickens, SC
Written by: Zack Mintz
AMGA Assistant Rock Guide
Part 1: Overview
Approach
Walking into Big Rock is short and straightforward. A map at the front kiosk depicts each path, and the climber’s trail follows a distinct loop around the crags back to the parking lot. It features a few brief uphills before gaining the rocks about ten minutes from the car. This loop is convenient because you can pick a direction and walk the circle through the day, stopping where you’d like to climb and ending near your car when you’re done.
Weather
Big Rock’s climbs face south, so they get full sun from mid-morning onward. This aspect creates awesome winter climbing conditions. When it’s cold out, the sunlight often keeps you warm enough to climb in a T-shirt. The rock surface tends to stay cooler, offering amazing friction without the humidity you’ll find in summer. On many routes, you’ll be pasting your feet against slabs or pinching little crystals, so this friction keeps these movements
manageable.
Views
The climbing area sits atop a small hill that overlooks a beautiful valley. Mountains dot the horizon, while trees encompass the surrounding hillsides. In winter, this valley is relatively quiet and feels vast amongst the bare trees. Tucked between Big Rock’s huge boulders, climbers experience a quiet serenity, where the only sounds that break its stillness are the rustling of cams and clinking of carabiners.
Me and Michael topping out Main Wall on a sunny day. My favorite view in the park!
Climbing Routes
Big Rock is a modern, mixed climbing crag that features sport, trad, and mixed climbing. There are about 50 sport climbs, a rarity for the Southeast. Some clock in at 5.4 while harder routes jump into the 5.12 grade. Where routes accept gear, first ascensionists have not placed bolts, though many bolts can be found on the slabs and features that would be otherwise unprotectable. Many routes are top-accessible, so it is quite reasonable to set up toprope climbs off the top anchors with some edge management care, such as using a long tether, taking a belay, or rappelling a static rope to reach the bolts.
The guide book for Big Rock is primarily focused on bouldering and at the time of this blog, the book might be a bit dated. However, its areas and routes are also well-documented on Mountain Project. The combination of these two resources will provide a host of great info! I recommend combing through the photos and comment sections on Mountain Project for additional information on specific routes and local knowledge on how to best enjoy the climbing! You can find this page here: https://www.mountainproject.com/v/113573351
Head guide Karsten Delap guiding “Black Bug” for Pisgah Climbing School!
Part 2: Route Catalogs
Best Big Rock Climbs: New Leader/Toprope Climbs
Flowering Hominid (aka Lily), 5.4, Flowering Hominid Wall. Low, balancey crux (*stick-clip) leads to a ledge where the climbing eases. Great first lead!
Shell easing up the tricky start with Chris on belay.
Nose Over Your Toes (aka Lucy), 5.6, Flowering Hominid Wall. Mantle your way to bolt one and pull onto the face at the ledge. Remember the name and don't forget to take in the view!
How Do You Want Your Eggs, 5.6, Flowering Hominid Wall. Techy-crux down low (*stick-clip) leads to a roof pull and sunny slab. Great variety!
Taylor eying the roof move after climbing the thin slab below.
Traffic Jam, 5.7, Lower Shaman Wall. High-step off the ground (*stick-clip) then trend rightward on smaller holds. Well-protected and tricky!
Rejus relaxing after sending “Traffic Jam” on a hot day!
Dig Dug, 5.6, Arch Wall. Hard moves before bolt one (*stick-clip) move you through a water-groove and onto a mellow slab above. Shady and crimpy!
Sam learning to lead climb through the water groove section. Picture: Courtenay Roche.
Best Big Rock Advanced Climbs: Trad
S Crack, Main Wall, 5.10. Mixed Protection. Cool jams follow a wave-like feature leading into 5.10 crystal moves up a steep slab. Full value! Here’s Head Guide and PCS owner Karsten Delap making it look easy through the funky crux!
Flakey, 5.8, Main Wall. Mixed Protection. A powerful start eases into juggy flake pulling that tops out near the summit. Awesome position! Here’s Lead Guide Anna Marie cruising Flakey on a sunny day!
Black Bug (aka The Dihedral), 5.10+, Isolation Wall, Trad. Laser-cut corner finger crack that will test your technique and strength. Safe, pumpy, and humbling! Here’s Anna Marie reaching for those key finger-locks!
Daddy Day Care, Upper Shaman Wall, 5.8, Trad. An awkward traverse near the ground spits you out into a finger crack that takes the best gear you could ever want. Pure fun!
Brendan and Baxter pulling the crux crack move after sending the traverse section, one in summer and the other in winter!
Underdog, Arch Wall, 5.9, Trad. A tricky start guards a funky, water groove crack that widens as you climb. Heads up off the ground!
Me finger-locking past the crux as I guide for Pisgah Climbing School!
Best Big Rock Advanced Climbs: Sport
Thar be Dragons & Ramp Arete, 5.7, 2 Pitches, Main Wall. Reachy low crux steps you under a roof and into a small alcove. To start pitch two, step across the void, and you’ll gain the arete and pull on flakes to the top. Isn’t multi-pitch sport climbing grand!? *Mountain Project lists Ramp Arete as Trad. It’s Sport, no cams necessary!*
Michael enjoying the exposure high up “Ramp Arete!”
Picken and Grinnin’, 5.11, Main Wall. Desperate slab pebble-pinching tech-fest. Inch your way out left before gaining a small rail where the movement eases. A cold-weather classic!
Free Ranged, 5.11a, Upper Shaman Wall. Tricky start (*stick-clip) before a reachy crux section. Nice and steep!
Stellar Slab, 5.11a, Lower Shaman Wall. *Stick-clip. Techy climbing on small holds that get better as the wall steepens. Good fun!
Grass Fed, 5.8+, Mixed, Upper Shaman Wall. Crack climbing or lieback down low past a few bolts before gaining the upper headwall. A few cam placements between the bolts by the crack
and the headwall will keep you off the ground. Awesome exposure!
Brendan negotiating the headwall after pulling through the opening crack moves!